CROCHET SLIPPERS FOR ADULTS | FREE CROCHET PATTERN
I moved to a magical summer paradise land a few months ago, where I’m surrounded by jungle, it’s hot all the time and I can hear the ocean from my bedroom. We’re about to enter our first “winter” here and although it’s not supposed to get cold, the wind has been quite icy the last few days, which chills the tiled floors in the house and freezes my toes off. So I decided to work up a quick pair of slippers for myself. I made the first pair a while back for my bestie when she was pregnant, and this time around I did them slightly differently, so here are 2 versions for you. Yay!
They really are super quick to make and only take a couple of hours to finish completely – threads woven in and all!
SUPPLIES YOU’LL NEED
Crochet Hook: 4.5mm
Yarn sewing needle.
Main yarn colour yarn in Chunky weight (Worsted / 10 ply/ 9 wpi).
Yardage: Precisely one 50g ball.
Accent yarn colours in DK weight (Light Worsted / 8ply/ 11wpi)
Maximum of 4 colours. I used light grey, yellow, fushia and turquiose.
Yardage: I didn’t measure, but leftovers are perfect for this part.
CROCHET PATTERN INFORMATION
- Written in US terminology
- Difficulty: Easy
- Necessary Skills: The crochet stitches mentioned below in abbreviations
- Gauge: 10 x 10 cm block = 8 rows of 11 DCs.
- Size: The finished shoe will measure 24cm long and fit a US size 5-6 foot.
- Increasing / decreasing shoe size: Use your gauge swatch to determine how many stitches you will need in order to wrap around your foot, just behind your toes. Increase to this stitch count over the 2nd and 3rd round.
- R = Row/ Round
- CH = Chain
- ST = Stitch
- SS = Slip stitch
- SC = Single crochet
- HDC = Half double crochet
- DC = Double crochet
- YO = Yarn over
R1: Using Main Colour, work 10 DC into a magic ring. Close with a SS into 1st DC. Ch 2. (10)
R2: 2DC in each st around. Close with a SS into 1st DC. Ch2. (20)
R3: DC in 1st 3 sts. *2DC in next st, DC in next 3sts*. Repeat all around. Close with a SS into 1st DC. Ch2. (25)
R4-10: DC in each st around. Close with a SS into 1st DC. Ch2. (25)
R11: DC in next 17 sts. Ch2, turn. Leave remaining 8 sts unworked. (17)
R12-18: DC in each st across. Ch2, turn. (17)
At the end of R 18, Ch1 instead of ch2. Turn.
Closing the back of the shoe: Fold the shoe exactly in half so it lies flat and you have a full side view of the shoe. Working through both layers and working 1SC into each st, SS the heel closed. Tie off. Weave in loose end. (8)
side view of the shoe
Ankle top trim:
Round 1: Insert hook between Row 17 & 18 near the back of the shoe. With a knot on your hook, join new colour (grey). Ch1. SC in same space. Ch1. *SC in-between next 2 rows. Ch1.* Repeat until you reach the Toe. Now working into stitch loops as usual, *SC in next st, ch1, skip next st.* Repeat across the edge of the Toe, until you reach the ankle again. SC *SC in-between next 2 rows. Ch1.* Repeat all around. Join with a SS into 1st SC. (22SC, 22ch)
Round 2: With a knot on your hook, join new colour (yellow) at any ch1 space. Ch2. 2DC in same space. *2DC in next ch space.* Repeat all around. Join with a SS into 1st DC. (44)
Round 3: With a knot on your hook, join new colour (pink) between any 2 DCs. Ch1, SC in same space. *Ch3, skip next 4 DC, SC between sts.* Repeat all around. Join with a SS into 1st SC. (11SC, 33ch)
Round 4: With a knot on your hook, join new yarn (blue) at any SC. Ch1, SC in same space. *Working into Round 2, HDC into the two middle DCs. SC into next SC on Round 3.* Repeat all around. Join with a SS into 1st SC. (11SC, 22HDC)
SUPPLIES AND INFORMATION
All the same as above; only the yarn is different, and I didn’t check the yardage or gauge for this pair.
Double Knit (Worsted / 10 ply/ 9 wpi) yarn in green, pink and black
Fluffy textured double knit yarn in white.
R1: Using Green and White yarn together, work 10 DC into a magic ring. Close with a SS into 1st DC. Ch 2. (10)
R2: 2DC in each st around. Close with a SS into 1st DC. Ch2. (20)
R3: DC in 1st st. *2DC in next st, DC in next st*. Repeat all around. Close with a SS into 1st DC. Ch2. (30)
R4-10: DC in each st around. Close with a SS into 1st DC. Ch2. (30)
Change colour now: On your last DC, you’ll need to drop the Green yarn and pick up the Black yarn before completing the stitch. So your last DC will be worked as follows:
YO, draw up a loop. YO, draw through 2 loops on hook. Drop Green yarn (do not cut). Pick up black yarn and working with both the Black and the White strand now, YO, draw through remaining 2 loops on hook, completing your DC.
R11: Working with Black and White yarn, DC in next 22 sts. Ch2, turn. Leave remaining 8 sts unworked. (22)
R12: DC in each st across. Change to Green on your last DC, in the same manner as before, by picking up the yarn you dropped earlier. Ch2, turn. (22)
R13: Using Green and White yarn, DC in each st across. Ch2, turn (22)
R14: DC in each st across. Change to Black yarn. Ch2, turn. (22)
R15: Using Black and White yarn, DC in each st across. Ch2, turn. (22)
R16: DC in each st across. Change to Green at the end of the row. Cut Black yarn, leaving a tail to weave in.
R17: Using Green and White yarn, DC in 1st st. *DC next 2 sts together* 10 times. DC in last st. Tie off (12)
Closing the back of the shoe:
Fold the shoe exactly in half so it lies flat and you have a full side view of the shoe. At the bottom of the heel, insert hook through both layers and join Pink yarn with a SS, ch 1. Working through both layers, SC in next 5 sts, thus closing the back of the shoe. You have now reached the ankle area. Working into side of sts, and still through both layers, make 1 SC. (7)
SC around the Ankle:
SC all around top of shoe. You’ll be working into sides of stitches, and making 2 SC into each row (13 sts). When you reach the toe. Work 1 SC into each st across the toe (8 sts). When you reach the end of the toe, continue around the ankle, working 2 SC into the side of each row, all the way around (13 sts). Close with a SS into 1 st SC at Ankle. (34)
SS into next 2 sts, Ch1, Turn. *SC next 2 sts together* twice. SS in next 2 sts. Turn. (2)
Skip next 2 sts. 5 DC in next st. Skip next 2 sts. SS into next st. Tie off. (5)
There are a few methods for making pompoms. In this tutorial, a donut is used. You can get plastic donuts from a craft store, specifically for pompoms, or simply cut your own disposable donuts from a piece of card. You will need 4 (2 per pompom).
For these pompoms you will need donuts with an outer radius of approx. 35mm, and an inner radius of approx. 15mm
Using 4m of Pink yarn, wind the yarn uniformly around 2 stacked donuts. To make it go faster, you can wind multiple threads at once. A bodkin needle or crochet hook can help pull the yarn through the hole.
Insert scissors between the donuts and snip all around the circumference.
Slip a thread (about 20 cm) between the donuts and secure with a knot. Do not cut this thread.
Remove the donuts. If you are using pieces of card, you will probably have to cut them to remove them.
Trim any untidy threads.
Using the long thread, tie your pompom securely to the slipper, in the center of your slipper at the first row of the Topline.
Note: example shown is larger than pompom on slipper
Yay – you’re done! Was that simple and quick?
If you make different sized slippers, it would be super lovely of you to share your notes in the comments so others can make use them too.
Remember: although direct copying of this pattern is not allowed, feel free to share this page with your crocheting friends!