It’s a stitch sampler that you can wear!
This project is a wonderful opportunity for you to learn new stitches in a fun way, that doesn’t involve the long rows and tons of yarn it would take to make an afghan stitch sampler!
SUPPLIES YOU’LL NEED
Crochet Hook: 4.5 mm (Size 7)
Yarn: DK weight (Light Worsted / 8ply/ 11wpi)
Yarn sewing needle
Scissors
COLOURS USED
You can use as many or as few colours as you want. Using one solid colour will produce a lovely texture, 2 contrasting colurs will highlight the different stitches, or you can bust your stash by using a different colour for every row.
I used 5 colours:
Dark Blue
Medium Blue
Light blue
Dark Grey
Light Grey
White
I didn’t have enough of the one blue yarn, so they’re very artistically mis-matchted with a deep magenta substitute on one leg.
CHANGING COLOURS
When it’s time to change colours, I like to tie the new colour on with a knot so I don’t have to weave in threads at the end. I super-hate sewing in ends, and with so many stripey color changes, this method is ideal. If you want to learn how to do it, I recommend this video, showing how to position the knot correctly (it looks awkward, but after the first 3 knots, you will be able to do it in your sleep).
Use any method you like, but make sure you begin each new row in the first stitch of the previous row unless otherwise specified.
ABBREVIATIONS
- R = Row
- CH = Chain
- ST = Stitch
- SS = Slip stitch
- SC = Single crochet
- HDC = Half double crochet
- DC = Double crochet
- FPDC = Front post double crochet
- BPDC = Back post double crochet
- TRC = Triple crochet
- CL = Cluster
- *…* = Section to be repeated
- YO = Yarn over
SPECIAL STITCH INSTRUCTIONS
Front and Back Post Double Crochet. (Click for tutorial)
Triple Crochet: YO twice. Draw up a loop. YO, draw through 2 loops on hook. YO, draw through remaining 3 loops on hook.
Cluster: Worked in the same way as a DC decrease. *YO, draw up a loop. YO, draw through 2 loops on hook.* Twice. YO, draw through remaining 3 loops on hook.
CROCHET INSTRUCTIONS
[ANKLE RIBBING]
R1: Ch 45. Join with a SS into 1st ch. (45)
R2: Ch2. Starting in 1st ch, DC in each ch, all the way around. Join with a SS into 1st DC. (45)
Change colour.
R3: Ch2. *FPDC in 1st st. BPDC in next st.* Repeat all around, alternating with FPDCs and BPDCs. Join with a SS into 1st FPDC. (45)
Change colour.
R4: Repeat R3.
Change colour.
R5: Repeat R3.
You will now have a beautiful, chunky little ribbed cuff!
Change colour.
[POPCORN]
R6: Ch1. SC into each st around. Join with a SS into 1st SC. (45)
R7: Ch2. DC in 1st 4 sts. Popcorn (consisting of 4DCs) in next st. *DC in next 4 sts. Popcorn in next st.* Repeat all around. Join with a SS into 1st DC. (36 DC, 9 Popcorns)
R8: Ch1. SC into each st around. Join with a SS into 1st SC. (45)
Change colour.
[SHELLS]
R9: Ch1. SC in 1st st. *[Skip 2 sts. 5DC in next st. Skip 2 sts. SC in next st.] Twice. Skip 1 st. 5DC in next st. Skip 2 sts. SC in next st.* Repeat. Skip 2 sts. 5DC in next st. Skip 2 sts. SC in next st. Skip 2 sts. 5DC in next st. Skip last 2 sts. Join with a SS into 1st SC. (8 Shells)
Change colour.
R10: Ch3 (Counts as 1st st). 4DC in 1st st. *Skip 2 sts. SC in next st. Skip 2 sts. 5DC in next st.* Repeat all around. Join with a SS into top of starting ch. Tie off. (8 Shells)
R11: Leaving 1st 2 sts un-worked, join new yarn with a SS at 3rd DC. Ch1. SC in same st. *Skip 2 sts. 5DC in next st. Skip 2 sts. SC in next st.* Repeat all around. Join with a SS into 1st SC. (8 Shells)
Change colour.
R12: Ch4 (counts as 1st st). *DC in next st. HDC in next. SC in next. HDC in next. DC in next. TRC in next.* Repeat all around. Join with a SS into top of starting ch. (48)
[ROW OF FLOWERS]
R13: Ch4 (counts as DC + 1ch). DC in same st. *Skip 2 sts. DC, ch1, DC in next st,* Repeat all around. Join with a SS into 3rd ch of starting ch. (16 V-stitches)
Change colour.
R14: Ch1. Working into ch space (into V-stitch), make a CL. Ch1, CL in same ch space. *In next ch space, CL, ch1, CL.* Repeat all around. Join with a SS into 1st CL. (16 Flowers)
Change colour.
R15: Ch1. *2SC in next ch space. SC btween next 2CLs.* Repeat all around. Join with a SS into 1st SC. (48)
[LARKSFOOT]
R16 & 17: Ch3 (counts as 1st st). DC in next 2 sts. *Ch1, skip next st. DC in next 3 sts.* Repeat all around. Join with a SS into top of starting ch. (12 Feet)
Change colour.
R18: Ch3 (counts as 1st st). *Ch1, skip next st. DC in next st. Now, work a long DC into SC from R15. DC in next st.* Repeat all around. Join with a SS into top of starting ch. (12 Feet)
R19: Ch3 (counts as 1st st). *Ch1, skip next st. DC in next 3 sts.* Repeat all around. Join with a SS into 3rd ch of starting ch. (12 Feet)
Change colour.
R20: Ch3 (counts as 1st st). *Work a long DC into DC from R17. DC in next st. Ch1, skip next st. DC in next st. * Repeat all around. Join with a SS into top of starting ch. (12 Feet)
R21: Ch3 (counts as 1st st). DC in next 2 sts.*Ch1, skip next st. DC in next 3 sts.* Repeat all around. Join with a SS into top of starting ch. (12 Feet)
Change colour.
R22: Ch3 (counts as 1st st). *Ch1, skip next st. DC in next st. Now, work a long DC into SC from R19. DC in next st.* Repeat all around. Join with a SS into top of starting ch. (12 Feet)
R23: Repeat R19.
Change colour.
R24: Ch1. SC in same st. *2SC in ch space. [SC in next 3 sts. SC in ch space] 3 times. SC in next 3 sts.* Repeat all around. Join with a SS into 1st SC. (51)
Change colour.
[MOROCCAN]
The following rows use a variation of the Moroccan Market Tote stitch by Moogly.
R25: Ch3 (counts as 1st st). Ch1, DC in same st. *Skip next 2 sts. DC, ch1, DC in next st.* Repeat all around. Join with a SS into 3rd ch of starting ch. (17 V-stitches)
Do not tie off. Use a different colour for the next row, dropping the loop of your current working yarn to pick up and carry on later.
R26: With a knot on your kook, join new yarn into ch space of 1st V-stitch. Ch3 (counts as 1st st). DC in same space. *Ch1. 2DC in next ch space.* Repeat all around. Join with a SS into top of starting ch, keeping the working yarn from the previous row to the front of your work-piece. Tie off. (17 Groups)
Pick up yarn from previous row.
R27: This row’s stitches will be worked over the previous row, and in-between the V-stitches from R25. Ch3 (counts as 1st st). *Between next 2 V-stitches, DC, ch1, DC.* Repeat all around. Finish with DC, ch1, SS into top of starting ch. (17 V-stitches)
Do not tie off. Use a different colour for the next row, dropping the loop of your current working yarn to pick up and carry on later.
R28: Repeat R26.
Pick up yarn from previous row.
R27: This row’s stitches will be worked over the previous row, and in-between the V-stitches from R25. Ch3 (counts as 1st st). *[Between next 2 V-stitches, 3DC] twice. Between next 2 V-stitches, 4DC.* Repeat all around. Join with a SS into top of starting ch. (56)
Change colour.
[ZIGZAGS]
Originally from this pin – if anyone knows the real name for this pattern, please comment and let me know!!
R28: Ch1, SC in 1st st. *Ch1. Skip next st. SC in next st.* Repeat all around. Join with a SS into 1st SC. (28 SC, 28 ch)
Do not tie off. Use a different colour for the next row, leaving the loop of your current working yarn to pick up and carry on later.
R29: (See pictures) With a knot on your kook, join new yarn into 1st skipped stitch of R27. Attach your yarn in front of the previous row’s stitches – do no work over them.Ch3 (counts as 1st st). *Ch1. DC in next open st on R27, this time working behind the previous row’s stitches. Ch1. DC in next open st on R27, this time working in front of the previous row’s stitches.* Repeat all around, alternating back and forth in this manner. Join with a SS into 3rd ch of starting ch, keeping the working yarn from the previous row to the back. (28 DC, 28 ch)
Drop working yarn and pick up yarn from previous row.
R30: Ch3 (counts as 1st st). *Ch1. DC into next SC st on R28, working behind the previous row’s stitches. Ch1. DC into next SC on R28, this time working in front of the previous row’s stitches.* Repeat all around, alternating back and forth in this manner. Join with a SS into3rd ch of starting ch. (28 DC, 28 ch)
Drop working yarn and pick up yarn from previous row.
R31: Ch3 (counts as 1st st). *Ch1. DC into next DC st on R29, working in front of the previous row’s stitches. Ch1. DC into next DC on R29, this time working behind the previous row’s stitches.* Repeat all around, alternating back and forth in this manner. Join with a SS into 3rd ch of starting ch, Keeping the working yarn from the previous row to the back. (28 DC, 28 ch)
Drop working yarn and pick up yarn from previous row.
R32: Keeping the working yarn from the previous row to the front, ch3 (counts as 1st st). *Ch1. DC into next DC st on R30, working in front of the previous row’s stitches. Ch1. DC into next DC on R30, this time working behind the previous row’s stitches.* Repeat all around, alternating back and forth in this manner. Join with a SS into 3rd ch of starting ch. (28 DC, 28 ch)
Drop working yarn and pick up yarn from previous row.
R33: Ch3 (counts as 1st st). *Ch1. DC into next SC st on R31, working behind the previous row’s stitches. Ch1. DC into next SC on R31, this time working in front of the previous row’s stitches.* Repeat all around, alternating back and forth in this manner. Join with a SS into 3rd ch of starting ch, keeping the working yarn from the previous row to the front. (28 DC, 28 ch)
R34: Keeping the working yarn from the previous row to the back, ch3 (counts as 1st st). *Ch1. DC into next SC st on R32, working behind the previous row’s stitches. Ch1. DC into next SC on R32, this time working in front of the previous row’s stitches.* Repeat all around, alternating back and forth in this manner. Join with a SS into 3rd ch of starting ch. (28 DC, 28 ch)
Tie off working yarn. Pick up yarn from previous row.
R35: Ch1, SC in same st. *Ch1. SC into next DC st on R31, working in front of the previous row’s stitches. Ch1. SC into next DC on R31, this time working behind the previous row’s stitches.* Repeat all around, alternating back and forth in this manner. Join with a SS into 1st SC (28 SC, 28 ch)
[TOP RIBBING]
Note: this type of ribbing may come out looser than regular crocheting. For a tighter rib, go down one hook size.
R36: Ch2. DC in 1st st. *DC in next ch space. DC in next st.* Repeat all around. (56)
Change colour.
R37: Ch2. *FPDB in 1st st. BPDC in next st.* Repeat all around, alternating with FPDCs and BPDCs. Join with a SS into 1st FPDC. (56)
Change colour.
R38: Repeat R37.
Change colour.
R39: Repeat R37.
R40: Ch2. HDC in each st around. Tie off.
You’re all done! I hope you enjoy the pattern as much as I did. Please let me know if you spot any mistakes so I can fix them.
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