Welcome to Part 2 of Orbit the magical baby dragon's crochet-along!
It's been so much fun watching your baby dragons in progress! Hundreds of you have shared photos on Instagram and Facebook, and I've spent hours browsing the #OrbitTheDragon hashtag, enjoying this mass creation of wee beasts! Thank you for sharing your pics. If you haven't already and you would like to, join the Projectarian Facebook group or use the #OrbitTheDragon hashtag on Instagram. You can tag me using @Projectarian on both platforms.
Without further ado, on to Part 2...
This pattern, or any portion thereof, may not be reproduced or used in any manner whatsoever without the express written permission of the designer. This pattern was written by Jessie Van In of Projectarian – and co-hosted on Hooked on Sunshine. Copyright and intellectual property rights reserved.
PATTERN INFORMATION
This is PART 2 of the Crochet Along and it contains instructions for the Body, Belly Covering, and Fins. The rest of the dragon's pattern will be in Parts 3- 4, released weekly at my website on Thursdays at midnight, South African time. Scroll down to read the pattern or click here to download it.
In Part 4 you will get clear and concise instructions for positioning and sewing all the bits. Please don't sew your dragon together until then, because the other pieces might not fit later down the line if you have started with incorrect placing.
THE BODY
Finished size: 135mm long x 100mm at the widest point.
IMPORTANT: The body must be the correct size in order to fit the belly covering. Do not stretch or over-stuff it.
R1: Using Body Colour, 6SC into a magic ring. (6)
Continue working in the round.
R2: 2SC in each st around. (12)
R3: *SC in next st. 2SC in next st.* Repeat all around. (18)
R4: *SC in next 2 sts. 2SC in next st.* Repeat all around. (24)
R5: *SC in next 3 sts. 2SC in next st.* Repeat all around. (30)
R6: *SC in next 4 sts. 2SC in next st.* Repeat all around. (36)
R7: *SC in next 5 sts. 2SC in next st.* Repeat all around. (42)
R8: *SC in next 6 sts. 2SC in next st.* Repeat all around. (48)
R9-22: SC in each st around. (48)
R23: *SC in next 6 sts. SC next 2 sts tog.* Repeat all around. (42)
R24: *SC in next 5 sts. SC next 2 sts tog.* Repeat all around. (36)
Start stuffing the body firmly and continue stuffing as you go.
R25-34: SC in each st around. (36)
R35: *SC in next 5 sts. 2SC in next st.* Repeat all around. (42)
Tie off, leaving a long thread (60cm) for sewing.
The increases in the last row have widened the opening, creating a lip. Use this lip to make the body blend onto the head when assembling your dragon (more info in Assembly section at the end of the pattern).
THE BELLY COVERING
Finished size: 205mm long x 125mm at the widest point.
Note: Do not use the invisible decrease on the belly covering, use a normal decrease.
The turning chains (ch1 and ch2) do not count as stitches throughout this section. Always work your first stitch into the first available stitch from the previous row.
R1: Using Belly Colour, 3SC into a magic ring. Ch1, turn. (3)
Place a stitch marker into your magic ring to mark it.
R2: 2SC in each st across. Ch1, turn. (6)
R3: SC in first st. 2SC in next st. *SC in next st. 2SC in next st.* Repeat once. Ch1, turn. (9)
R4: SC in first 2 sts. 2SC in next st. *SC in next 2 sts. 2SC in next st.* Repeat once. Ch1, turn. (12)
R5: SC in first 3 sts. 2SC in next st. *SC in next 3 sts. 2SC in next st.* Repeat once. Ch1, turn. (15)
R6: SC in first 4 sts. 2SC in next st. *SC in next 4 sts. 2SC in next st.* Repeat once. Ch2, turn. (18)
When working rows 7-13, place stitch markers at the beginning of Row 8, the end of Row 10, and at the beginning and end of Row 13.
R7-13: DC in first 3 sts. HDC in next 2 sts. SC in next 8 sts. HDC in next 2 sts. DC in rem 3 sts. Ch2, turn. (18)
At the end of row 13, only chain 1, then turn.
R14-19: SC in each st across. Ch1, turn. (18)
R20: SC in first 5 sts. 2SC in next st. *SC in next 5 sts. 2SC in next st.* Repeat once. Ch1, turn. (21)
R21: SC in first 6 sts. 2SC in next st. *SC in next 6 sts. 2SC in next st.* Repeat once. Ch1, turn. (24)
R22- 32: SC in each st across. Ch1, turn. (24)
R33: SC in first 6 sts. SC next 2 sts tog. *SC in next 6 sts. SC next 2 sts tog.* Repeat once. Ch1, turn. (21)
R34: SC in first 5 sts. SC next 2 sts tog. *SC in next 5 sts. SC next 2 sts tog.* Repeat once. Ch1, turn. (18)
R35: SC in first 4 sts. SC next 2 sts tog. *SC in next 4 sts. SC next 2 sts tog.* Repeat once. Ch1, turn. (15)
R36: SC in first 3 sts. SC next 2 sts tog. *SC in next 3 sts. SC next 2 sts tog.* Repeat once. Ch1, turn. (12)
R37: SC in first 2 sts. SC next 2 sts tog. *SC in next 2 sts. SC next 2 sts tog.* Repeat once. Ch1, turn. (9)
R38: SC in first st. SC next 2 sts tog. *SC in next st. SC next 2 sts tog.* Repeat once. Ch1, turn. (6)
R39: *SC next 2 sts tog.* 3 times. Ch1, turn. (3)
R40: SC all 3 sts tog. (1) Do not tie off.
Now it’s time to crochet all around the edge.
This row is going to be worked all the way around the edge of the belly, placing your stitches into the space between each row. If you stretch your workpiece, the little holes will be more visible.
For clarity, this example is crocheted with a contrasting colour.
Starting in the space between row 39 and 40, ch1. Work 1SC into the space between each row for 27 rows.
By now you’ll have reached the rows that begin with chain 2 and end with a DC. On these rows, work 1 SC into the space between the rows, and 1 SC around the post of the DC (or around the chain 2).
When you reach row 10 of the belly (where you placed a stitch marker), SC around the post of the DC, HDC in next space. DC in next space. 2TRC in next space. (DC, ch2, SC) in next space.
Continue working SC in each space between the rows.
When you reach row 1 of the belly, do not work a SC into the magic ring.
When you reach row 8 of the belly (where you placed another stitch marker, SC around the starting chain. Ch2, DC in same space. 2TRC in next space. DC in next space. HDC in next space.
The Belly Covering should look like this so far.
Important: Note how the chain 2 on either side of the Belly Covering creates sharp corners. This shaping is important. If the edge doesn’t make this shape, adjust your tension.
Continue working SC in each space between rows until the belly is completely bordered, then join with a SS and tie off, leaving a thread (1.5m) for sewing.
THE FINS
SMALL
Make 1 - Finished size: 15mm tall x 25mm at the widest point.
R1: Using Fin Colour, 6SC into a magic ring. (6)
Continue working in the round.
R2: *SC in next 2 sts. 2SC in next st.* Repeat. (8)
R3: *SC in next 3 sts. 2SC in next st.* Repeat. (10)
SS in next 2 sts to taper the end of your row (check for consistency). Tie off, leaving a thread (20cm) for sewing.
The loose end from the magic ring can be stuffed inside the fins.
When you flatten the fin, make sure the increases fall on either side of the fin to make a tidy triangle.
MEDIUM
Make 2 -Finished size: 20mm tall x 30mm at the widest point.
R1: Using Fin Colour, 6SC into a magic ring. (6)
Continue working in the round.
R2: *SC in next 2 sts. 2SC in next st.* Repeat. (8)
R3: *SC in next 3 sts. 2SC in next st.* Repeat. (10)
R4: *SC in next 4 sts. 2SC in next st.* Repeat. (12)
SS in next 2 sts to taper the end of your row. Tie off, leaving a thread (20cm) for sewing.
LARGE
Make 4 - Finished size: 25mm tall x 35mm at the widest point.
R1: Using Fin Colour, 6SC into a magic ring. (6)
Continue working in the round.
R2: *SC in next 2 sts. 2SC in next st.* Repeat. (8)
R3: *SC in next 3 sts. 2SC in next st.* Repeat. (10)
R4: *SC in next 4 sts. 2SC in next st.* Repeat. (12)
R5: *SC in next 5 sts. 2SC in next st.* Repeat. (14)
SS in next 2 sts to taper the end of your row. Tie off, leaving a thread (20cm) for sewing. Do not sew the fins closed or stuff them.
- END OF PART 2 -
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PART 3
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This pattern or any portion thereof may not be reproduced or used in any manner whatsoever without the express written permission of the designer. This pattern was written by Jessie Van In of Projectarian – and co-hosted on Hooked on Sunshine. Copyright and intellectual property rights reserved.