Welcome to your next free crochet pattern! Scroll down to Crochet Instructions to jump right in, or read on for more info.

Project Frankenyarn has been my own personal experiment from the curiosity of “what would happen if…?” Although there was lots of ripping out and redoing things that didn’t work out the first [or second or third] time, this project was very relaxing for me because it doesn’t take much focus. It’s very casually written (not like my fancy, official patterns), so let’s kick off our shoes and enjoy a some laid-back crochet therapy!

In Part One, I decided to join up all the little pieces of yarn collected in my stash over the years since I started crocheting, to make one megaball, Frankenyarn.

Click here to learn how to make your own Frankenyarn.

Here in Part 2, I’m using that Frankenstein’s monsterball to make some ratty looking little hobo blocks, with the very high hopes that they’ll eventually make for a beautiful little blanket (they will, I promise!).

These little blocks are made using the moss stitch, which is very simple and easy. I tried a few different things but the moss stitch worked best for the colours in my Frankenyarn to give it texture without being too fussy.

 

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PATTERN INFORMATION

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SUPPLIES YOU’LL NEED

Crochet Hook: 5mm (Size 8/H)

Yarn sewing needle

Scissors

 

 

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YARN INFO

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Click here to learn how to make your own Frankenyarn.

 

COLOURWAY & YARDAGE

yardage is approximate

 

Yarn Needed for Part 2 (Blocks)

Blocks: Frankenyarn – Mixed brands, mixed weights, mixed colours (278g)

 

Yarn Needed for Part 3 & 4 (Edge & Joining)

Edging & Joining: Elle Pure Gold, Double Knit, Titanium (150g)

Border: Elle Pure Gold, Double Knit, Honey (20g)

Border: Elle Family Knit, Margarita (50g)

Border: Kismet Yarns, Funky Stripes, Tiny Tots (50g)

 

NOTE:

My ball of Frankenyarn just happened to be 278g, which made 36 tidy little blocks. You can substitute this with any double knit yarn, which is the same as Light Worsted / 8ply/ 11wpi.

 

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ABBREVIATIONS

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• R = Row
• CH = Chain
• ST = Stitch
• SS = Slip stitch
• SC = Single crochet
• *…* = Section to be repeated
• DC = Double crochet
• Hk = hook
• Sp = space

 

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GAUGE

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Each block is 14×14 cm

Pattern: 22 rows x 22 stitches using the moss stitch

 

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CROCHET INSTRUCTIONS

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I waited til I got to the pink part of my ball before taking photos for the tutorial because I like girly photos…

 

Let’s get started!

R1: Chain 24.

 

SC into 4th ch from hk.

 

*Ch1, skip next ch sp. SC in next ch sp.* Repeat across until all ch sps are used up, finishing with a SC in the last ch. You should have 22 sts (11 SC and 11ch). This number should remain constant throughout the entire block.

 

R2: Ch2, turn.

 

Skip 1st st. SC in ch sp.

 

*Ch1, sk next st, SC in ch sp* Repeat across, finishing with a SC into the last ch sp.

 

R3-22: Repeat R2. I had to adjust my tension as I went, to try get all the blocks a similar size. I also found it surprizingly difficult to count my rows and ended up with 21 rows on some blocks that I had to fix! The solution is to zigzag your finger down the block as you count the SC stitches and make sure there are 22.

If you’re using mixed yarns, you’ll eventually end up with a scruffy little rag like this. But don’t worry, my duck. Everything will be alright in the end!

 

Keep going until you have 36 gorgeous little scruffy rubbishes.

I had loads of fun making my raglets and the best part is always when the colours change! I had loads of grey, so after 6 blocks I was dying for a colour change! When it finally changed to lavender it was like the sun came out and my heart did a little flip flop.

 

The dark purple/maroon/red phase was my least favorite and I seriously considered leaving these blocks out and making some pretty pinks to replace them. But that felt like cheating because these are my genuine stash blocks with each their own memory of a project from I was a wee lass, pawing my way around the world of crochet.

In the end I was glad I kept them.

That’s it from me for now. Enjoy making your baby yarn monsters and I’ll see you in Part 3 to join the blocks!

 

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BE A PART OF THE TRIBE

 

If you’re making something from one of my Projects, why don’t you share it with your tribe of fellow Projectarians? We have a Facebook group that is currently dominated by Winchesterton the Third and we need to see some variety, so please share your Frankenyarn – or any other Projectarian Projects with us!

Follow the #ProjectFrankenyarn hashtag on Instagram to see other member’s projects, and follow me @Projectarian to hear about new pattern releases (like Part 3 of this Project!)

 

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PIN IT!

 

SO many of you have asked for it since my Cowboy Boots post, so here it is – the Cowboy Hat pattern!

Personally, this type of hat is so far from my usual style of work and I wouldn’t normally make anything like it, but a few years ago when I had just learned to crochet and started making baby clothes for my friends, I got the odd request for things like this. So when somebody asked for a set of cowboy boots and a hat for their baby’s photo shoot, I went ahead and made it, took a photo, and posted it on Deviant Art (where I shared most of my work at the time), thinking nobody else would like it. That’s when I got my first and only Daily Deviation ever!

Since it was so popular, I decided to use the boots for one of the first crochet patterns I posted when I started this website. That’s when the requests stared coming in for the “cowboy hat pattern too, please”. I honestly never wanted to make another hat like it ever again and to let you in on a secret, when I made the hat for this tutorial I did not tie my yarn off at the end, nor did I cut it or weave in the loose ends. In fact, immediately after finishing, I frogged the whole thing to use the yarn for a different project! Interestingly, I had a similar feeling about Winchesterton The Third, who was also a custom order that I wasn’t particularly wild about- the techniques were super fun to play with but I thought nobody would really be interested in this little doggo – yet it’s turned out to be my most popular pattern to date!

As much as I didn’t love the designs themselves, I loved that they brought joy to my beautiful customers, and I was happy to know they were getting exactly what they wanted. So cheers to our differences in taste. This pattern is a favour from me to you, to say thanks for popping in, and thanks for letting me know what you want to see here! If this design is up your alley, do enjoy it while I trot off to make some fantastical wee beasts!

 

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SUPPLIES YOU’LL NEED

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Crochet hook: 3mm

Yarn sewing needle/ Tapestry needle

Scissors

 

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PATTERN INFORMATION

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Written in US terminology

Size: 3-6 months.

Difficulty: Easy.

Necessary Skills: The magic ring, and the crochet stitches listed below in abbreviations.

Yarn Weight: Double Knit (Light Worsted / 8ply/ 11wpi).

Yardage: +/- 60 grams.

Gauge: 16 DC x 9 Rows will make a 10 x 9.5 cm swatch.

 

 

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ABBREVIATIONS

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• R = Row
• CH = Chain
• ST = Stitch
• SS = Slip stitch
• DC = Double crochet
• *…* = Section to be repeated

 

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CROCHET INSTRUCTIONS

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R1: Ch2. 12 DC in magic ring. Join with a SS. (12)

R2: Ch2. 2DC in each st around. Join with a SS. (24)

R3: Ch2. DC in 1st st. *2DC in next st. DC in next st.* Repeat all around. Join with a SS. (36)

R4: Ch2. DC in 1st st. *2DC in next st. DC in next 2 sts.* Repeat all around. Join with a SS. (48)

R5: Ch2. *DC in 11 sts. 2DC in next st.* Repeat all around. Join with a SS. (52)

R6: Ch2. *DC in 12 sts. 2DC in next st.* Repeat all around. Join with a SS. (56)

R7: Ch2. *DC in 13 sts. 2DC in next st.* Repeat all around. Join with a SS. (60)

R8: Ch2. *DC in 14 sts. 2DC in next st.* Repeat all around. Join with a SS. (64)

R9-16: Ch2. DC in each st around. (64)

R17: Ch2.  Work into front loop only for this round. *DC in 7 sts. 2DC in next st.* Repeat all around. Join with a SS. (72)

R18: Ch2. *DC in 8 sts. 2DC in next st.* Repeat all around. Join with a SS. (80)

R19: Ch2. *DC in 9 sts. 2DC in next st.* Repeat all around. Join with a SS. (88)

R20: Ch2. *DC in 10 sts. 2DC in next st.* Repeat all around. Join with a SS. (96)

R21: Ch2. *DC in 11 sts. 2DC in next st.* Repeat all around. Join with a SS. Tie off and weave in loose ends. (104)

 

Lay the hat flat with your joining seam running down one side. It will look like a little sunhat at this point.

At the bottom edge of Row 4, make a fold to push the top point of the hat down inside the hat. On either side of the hat, the crease should end at the edge or Row 7.

Lay your hat flat again and flip the brim up in the middle. Pull it down on either side of the hat.

Now gently open the hat up, flatten the brim at the front and back of the head, and you’re done!

Tip: To help retain the shape, it’s a good idea to starch the hat.

 

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If you enjoyed this tutorial drop a comment below and let me know! Please share this pattern in your crochet circles (see below for sharing-guidelines). Your support keeps the free patterns coming!

 

If you’d like to share your creations with fellow tribe members who also use Projectarian tutorials, or be kept in the loop about up-coming patterns, come on over to our Facebook group!

 

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COPYRIGHT & SHARING

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Although this pattern is free for you to use, direct copying is strictly prohibited.

If you would like to share the pattern, please Pin it, or share this page’s link.

You may only share ONE image from this post.

If you share this pattern, you must add this page’s link.

You are welcome to sell any physical item made from this pattern.

 

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PIN IT!

Welcome to Projectarian’s 30th Project! Today we’re doing a variation of the Amish Puzzle Ball crochet pattern, made popular by Look At What I Made.

Full credit goes to Look At What I Made for the original pattern – I’ve just designed different tops for the little wedges, to make them more interesting.

 

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SUPPLIES YOU’LL NEED

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Yarn in multiple colours – use at least 2 for contrast. I used white as my main colour, plus 3 pastel colours for contrast, and grey for joining.

Crochet hook: 2.5mm

Yarn sewing needle

Stuffing

Scissors

 

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PATTERN INFORMATION

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Written in US terminology.

Difficulty: Easy

Necessary Skills: The crochet stitches listed below in abbreviations.

Yarn Weight: Double Knit (Light Worsted / 8ply/ 11wpi)

Gauge: Gauge is not critical, but in this case, the tighter the better!

 

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ABBREVIATIONS

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• R = Row/ Round
• CH = Chain
• ST = Stitch
• SS = Slip stitch
• SC = Single crochet
• HDC = Half Double Crochet
• DC = Double Crochet
• *…* = Section to be repeated

 

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CROCHET INSTRUCTIONS

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WEDGES

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R1-8: Follow the instructions at Look At What I Made, under the section titled Wedges.

Tie off at the end of R8 (24 sts), and then close your wedge with a seam as indicated in the original pattern. Pull the loose end through to the inside of the wedge.

 

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LIDS

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R1: Ch3. Join with a SS into 1st ch, making a small ring. Ch2 (counts as 1st st). Working into ring: HDC, *ch2, 2HDC* 3 times. Ch2. Join with a SS into 1st HDC. Tie off.

R2: Join new colour at any ch2  space with a SS, ch1 (does not count as a st). Working the tail in as you,  5SC into ch space. In next ch space: 2HDC, 2DC, 2HDC. 6SC in next ch space. In next ch space: 2HDC, 2DC, 2HDC. Join with a SS into 1st SC. This SS counts as a stitch. Tie off. (24)

Make 12 lids. If you’re using 3 contrasting colours like me, make 4 lids in each colour.

 

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JOINING

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Insert your hook at the 2nd DC in a lid, and also into the 1st st on a wedge. Join new yarn with a knot on your hook. Ch1, SC in same space. Tuck the loose end inside the wedge. Continue working through both layers. SC in next 11 sts. (12)

Join another lid of the same colour. To do this, insert your hook at the 2nd DC in a lid, and also into the 1st st on another wedge. Working through both layers, SC in next 12 sts. (12)

Join 2 more lids in this manner.

You’ll now have a string of 4 lids, all joined on one side, and open on the other side.

Stuff the wedge you’re currently working on, and tuck all the loose ends inside.  SC in the remaining 12 sts, stuffing the wedge firmly before closing it all the way. Working through both layers, SS into the 1st st on the current wedge, then SS into the 12th st on the previous wedge, to close the gap where the wedges join.

Continue working through both layers, and stuff the wedges as you go. SC in next 12 sts. SS into the 1st st on the current wedge, then SS into the 12th st on the previous wedge.

Close up the last 2 wedges in the same way.

When you reach the end of the 1st wedge. SS into the 1st st on the current wedge then SS into the 12th st, and the 13th st on the 4th wedge. Tie off and weave in the loose end.

Four wedges are now joined and your first ring is complete! Make 2 more rings the same.

All done – you can now assemble your awesome puzzle ball!

 

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I’d love to see your finished project so please share pictures with your creative tribe of fellow Projectarians! You can tag @Projectarian on Instagram with your #HarlequinPuzzleBall pics, or post them in our Facebook group.

Did you enjoy this tutorial? Do you agree with the difficulty rating? Find a typo? Leave a comment and let me know!

Share this pattern in your crochet circles, and remember you can subscribe to get notifications of all the new Projects as they’re published.

xoxo,

https://www.projectarian.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/03/27-1.jpg

 

Visit my Shop for Premium Patterns with unlimited downloads and one-on-one support!

 

 

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COPYRIGHT & SHARING

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Although this pattern is free for you to use, direct copying is strictly prohibited.

If you would like to share the pattern, please Pin it, or share this page’s link.

You may only share ONE image of the ball from this post.

If you share this pattern, you must add this page’s link.

You are welcome to sell any physical item you make with this pattern.

 

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PIN IT!

 

Credit goes to Lime Green Lady for this birdie’s body, which is a free pattern at her blog!

Pattern: Crochet Bird by Lime Green Lady

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SUPPLIES YOU’LL NEED

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Yarn in multiple colours (more info below)

Crochet hook: 2.5mm (slightly bigger or smaller will work too)

Yarn sewing needle

Stuffing

Scissors

Felting needle (Fine gauge)

Felting roving in multiple colours (more info below)

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YARN COLOURS

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I used a bunch of different brands, and you can use any kind that you can find in the right colours, as long as it’s the correct weight. You’ll need:

Light Grey

Dark Grey

White

Black

Red-Orange

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NEEDLE FELTING

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You will need to know how to needle felt to do the detail on the bird’s face. You can make your own roving/fluff for felting by brushing yarn with a cat brush (slicker brush). The fluff that stays behind in the brush is ideal for felting and you’ll need very small amounts. You’ll use the following colours:

Yellow-Orange

White

Black

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PATTERN INFORMATION

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Written in US terminology

Difficulty: Intermediate. The body itself is relatively easy, but the felting presents more of a challenge.

Necessary Skills: The magic ring, working in the round (in a spiral), basic sewing (whip stitch), needle felting, and the crochet stitches listed below in abbreviations.

Yarn Weight: Double Knit (Light Worsted / 8ply/ 11wpi)

Gauge: Not critical with amigurumi. Using the suggested hook and yarn combo will make a bird about 9cm tall. The mesh should be tight enough to conceal the stuffing inside.

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ABBREVIATIONS

• R = Row
• CH = Chain
• ST = Stitch
• SS = Slip stitch
• SC = Single crochet
• *…* = Section to be repeated
• Hk = hook
• Decr = Decrease (SC next 2 sts together)

All set? let’s begin…

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CROCHET INSTRUCTIONS

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BODY

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Click here and follow Lime Green Lady’s pattern to make the body. Use Light Grey yarn (a 2.5 mm hook should be used throughout the entire pattenr). Turn the body inside out as you go, so the the Wrong Side faces out when you’re done.

Weave in the loose ends.

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TAIL

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R1: Using Black yarn, ch13. In 2nd ch from hk, *(SC, ch1, SC). SC in next 10 ch. In last ch, (SC, ch1, SC).* Repeat along other side of ch.

R2: SC in 1st st. In ch space, (SC, ch1, SC). SC in next st. HDC in next st and change to White as you complete the stitch (YO with black, draw up a loop. YO with White and draw through all 3 loops on hook to complete the HDC).

Using White yarn, DC in next 2 sts. Work the Black yarn in as you go. Change to Black on your 2nd st, by drawing Black yarn up to complete the DC.

Using Black, DC in next 2 sts. Work the White in as you go. Change to White on your 2nd st.

Continue alternating in this manner with 2 Black DC, 2 White DC, until you have 3 White stripes. Change to Black.

In ch space, (DC, ch1, DC). DC in nest 2 sts. In ch space, (DC, ch1, DC). *2 White DC, 2 Black DC. * Twice. 2 White DC. Change to Black. HDC in next st. In ch space, (SC, ch1, SC). SC in next st. SC in last st.

Tie off, leaving a long thread for sewing Tail to Body.

Position the tail at the very last Row of the body. Sew in place and weave in the loose ends.

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BEAK

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R1: Using Red-Orange yarn, 4SC in magic ring.

R2: Continue working in the round.  2SC in each st. (8)

R3: *SC in next st. 2SC in next st.* 4 times. (12)

R4: SC in next st. *HDC in next. 2DC in next. HDC in next.* SC in next 3 sts. *Repeat. SC in next 2 sts.

SS in next 2 sts and tie off, leaving a thread for sewing Beak to Head.

Stuff the Beak. The DCs should be positioned at the top and bottom of the Beak. Squash the Beak slightly on the sides to shape it, and position it in line with the top of the Head, spanning down to the top of the Chest, with the DCs at the top and bottom. Sew in place and weave in the loose end.

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BELLY

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R1: Using Black yarn, ch10. Starting in 2nd ch from hk, SC in next 9 ch. SS into the same ch as your last SC. Tie off.

R2: Using White yarn, join with a SS, ch1 at 2nd SC. SC in same st. SC in next 6sts, leaving last st un-worked. Ch1, turn. (7)

R3: 2SC in 1st st. SC in next 5 sts. 2SC in last st. Ch1, turn. (9)

R4: 2SC in 1st st. SC in next 7 sts. 2SC in last st. Ch1, turn. (11)

R5-10: SC in each st. Ch1, turn. (11)

R11: Decr. SC in next 7 sts. Decr. Ch1, turn. (9)

R12: Decr. SC in next 5 sts. Decr. Ch1, turn. (7)

R13: Decr. SC in next 3 sts. Decr. Ch1, turn. (5)

R14: Decr. SC in next st. Decr. (3)

SC around the edge:

Return to R1. Join White yarn at un-worked Black SC, with a SS, ch1. Now working into the sides of the Rows, work 1 SC into each Row, all the way down the side of the Belly (13). At the bottom, work 1 SC into each st (3). Work 1 SC into each Row up the other side of the Belly (13). SS into last un-worked Black SC.

Tie off, leaving a long thread for sewing Belly to Body.

Leave a gap of about 1 Row under the Beak. Position the Belly and sew the White area in place with White yarn. Use light Grey yarn to sew the Back area. Weave in the loose ends.

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FELTING

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Work slowly and make sure both side of the face are symmetrical. Begin with the cheek. Use Yellow-Orange to make the Cheek  shape on the side of the head. I used pins as a guide, to mark both side of the head symmetrically .

Now fill the area between the cheek and Beak with White, adding a rounded shape above the Cheek which will be the Brow.

Now add a Black  line around the Beak, starting where the White starts near the bottom of the Beak, and ending at the same position on the other side of the Head.

Add a long, thin Black triangle between the White and the Cheek.

Now make a Black circle for the Eye, between the Brow and the triangle. It doesn’t have to be solid in the middle, since the Eye is going to be Orange.

Using Red-Orange, make an Iris inside the Black circle, leaving a ring of Black around the Eye. Mine covered the Black too much, so I went over it again at the end with more Black to define the ring around the Eye.

Add a small Black Pupil inside the Eye.

Use White to make a highlight overlapping the Iris and Pupil.

You can now go over any parts that need more definition.

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LEGS

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R1: Using Red-Orange yarn, 5SC in magic ring.

R2: Continue working in the round. SC in each st. (5)

Tie off.

R3: Join White yarn with a SS, ch1. SC in each st. (5)

R4: SC in each st.

SS in next 2 sts. Tie off, leaving a long thread for sewing Legs to Body.

Make 2.

Stuff the Legs and position them at R8-12 of the Belly. Pin in place and make sure the Bird stands. Shift the legs if needed, to balance the Bird. Sew in place and weave in loose ends.

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WINGS

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Click here and follow Lime Green Lady’s pattern to make the wings as well. Use Dark Grey yarn. At the end of Round 5, tie off and change to Brown yarn. Join Brown yarn with a knot on your hook and complete the wing as the pattern instructs.

Weave in the loose ends, leaving a long Dark Grey thread for sewing Wing to Body.

Position the wings at Round 8, with a gap of about 3 sts between them at the narrowest point between the “shoulders”. The tips of the wings should touch each other near the tail.

Your fancy little Bird is complete! I’d love to see how yours came out so please share your pictures with us! You can tag @Projectarian on Instagram with your #ProjectZebraFinch pics, or post them in our Facebook group.

If you enjoyed the tutorial, leave a comment and let me know! Share this pattern with anyone you know who would enjoy it, and remember you can subscribe to get notifications of all the new Projects as they’re published

~ https://www.projectarian.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/03/27-1.jpg

Visit my shop for premium patterns with unlimited downloads and after-sale support!

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COPYRIGHT & SHARING

---

Although this pattern is free for you to use, direct copying is strictly prohibited.

If you would like to share the pattern, please Pin it, or share this page’s link.

You may only share ONE image of the bird from this post.

If you share this pattern, you must add this page’s link.

You are welcome to sell any physical item you make with this pattern.

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PIN IT!

Meet Winchesterton the Third. He’s a Schnauzer dog.

This doggy wasn’t always this dapper looking, though. He went through an awkward phase while his fur was growing and all the other puppies laughed at him – but more on that later. For now I’ll ask you kindly not to stare, point, or make any hilarious – er, I mean inappropriate– remarks about his abnormal hair growth.

It would be insensitive, for example, to call him Spaghetti Snout, or Noodle Nose, and would probably him cry. Not that I would know, of course – I’m a nice person who definitely didn’t come up with those mean names.

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INTRO

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This is Part 1 of the pattern.  This part will teach you how to make the dog’s body from start to finish, without any fur. Part 2 will be a tutorial on how to make and attach your very own handmade doggy fur, so keep an eye out for that! (Hit subscribe if you want an email notification!) UPDATE: Part 2 is live! Click here for Part 2.

UPDATE: This pattern is now available in Dutch, too! Click here for the translated version.

HOW CAN I POSSIBLY THANK YOU FOR THIS AMAZING PATTERN?

Winchesterton III’s pattern is totes free – yes, this is your lucky day! So pay it forward by sharing it with all your crochet buddies, comment to let me know how much you love it and how it was worth my while to bestow such a generous freebie on the crochet populace! XD If you find that you like my pattern writing style, you can support my dream and feed your passion with my Premium Patterns!

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WHAT TYPE OF YARN SHOULD I USE?

This is a very important point! You’ll be using some of the same yarn for your dog’s body and his fur, so make sure you start off with the right stuff! To make the fur, you’re going to be brushing the yarn out, so you need yarn that will turn fluffy when you brush it. So cotton or anything stringy wont work! If you unravel a thread of yarn and it separates into strings, it’s not going to turn into fur! You can test by brushing the very tip of a thread of yarn to see if it goes fluffy.

Read “PATTERN DETAILS” below for more info on yarn weight and brand!

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YOUR CROCHETING IS SO NEAT! HOW DO YOU DO IT?

I know right – just try and spot my decreases! Can’t see them? That’s because I use the magical Invisible Decrease and other way cool tricks! You can learn all about the best decreasing method ever, and my other secret techniques at this blog post:

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PATTERN DETAILS

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SUPPLIES YOU’LL NEED

Yarn in main body colour (I used almost a whole 100g ball of Dark Grey)

Crochet Hook: 3mm (Size 11)

Yarn sewing needle

Sharp scissors

Safety eyes: 21mm

Safety nose: 18mm W x 15mm H

Stuffing

NOTE: in Part 2, you’ll need extra supplies for the fur, including:

Yarn in fur colours (I used less than a 100g ball of Light Grey and Beige)

Slicker brush AKA cat brush (one that hasn’t been used on real cats!)

Optional: Felting needle

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CROCHET PATTERN INFORMATION

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• Written in US terminology

• Difficulty: Easy – Intermediate. The body itself is easy, but the fur presents more of a challenge.

• Necessary Skills: The magic ring, working in the round (in a spiral) and the crochet stitches listed below in abbreviations. The pattern with teach you how to make the fur in Part 2.
  

• Yarn Weight: Double Knit (Light Worsted / 8ply/ 11wpi)

• Yarn Brand: I used a South African brand called Charity. I realize most of you aren’t in SA, so use any brand that will successfully produce fur, as described above in “WHAT TYPE OF YARN SHOULD I USE?”

• Gauge: Not critical with amigurumi. Using the suggested hook and yarn combo will make a dog about 25cm tall. Your tension should be tight enough to conceal the stuffing inside.
  

• Note: The dog’s entire body is inside-out! Turn all pieces inside-out before stuffing them. If you’re doing Invisible Decreases, make sure they’re also inside-out!
  

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ABBREVIATIONS

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• R = Row
• CH = Chain
• ST = Stitch
• SS = Slip stitch
• SC = Single crochet
• *…* = Section to be repeated
• Hk = hook

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 *

Let’s get started, shall we?

*

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CROCHET INSTRUCTIONS

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BODY

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R1: 6 SC into a magic ring. (6)

R2: Continue working in the round. 2SC in each st around. (12)

R3: *SC in next st. 2SC in next st.* Repeat all around. (18)

R4: *SC in next 2 sts. 2SC in next st.* Repeat all around. (24)

R5: *SC in next 3 sts. 2SC in next st.* Repeat all around. (30)

R6: *SC in next 4 sts. 2SC in next st.* Repeat all around. (36)

R7: *SC in next 5 sts. 2SC in next st.* Repeat all around. (42)

R8: *SC in next 6 sts. 2SC in next st.* Repeat all around. (48)

R9-22: SC in each st around. (48)

R23: *SC in next 6 sts. SC next 2 sts together.* Repeat all around. (42)

R24: *SC in next 5 sts. SC next 2 sts together.* Repeat all around. (36)

Start stuffing the body firmly, and continue stuffing as you go.

R25-40: SC in each st around. (36)

Tie off, leaving a long thread for sewing body to head.

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HEAD

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Those rather silly looking tentacles around his nose? I put them there before attaching my safety nose because I was worried the nose’s backing would get in the way later and I wouldn’t be able to get my hook in there to attach fur. Turns out, it was unnecessary, so you don’t have to do it. We’ll get to the fur later, and for now we’ll politely ignore this incredibly silly snout.

R1: 6 SC into a magic ring. (6)

R2: Continue working in the round. 2SC in each st around. (12)

R3: *SC in next st. 2SC in next st.* Repeat all around. (18)

R4: *SC in next 2 sts. 2SC in next st.* Repeat all around. (24)

R5: *SC in next 3 sts. 2SC in next st.* Repeat all around. (30)

R6: *SC in next 4 sts. 2SC in next st.* Repeat all around. (36)

R7: *SC in next 5 sts. 2SC in next st.* Repeat all around. (42)

R8-19: SC in each st around. (42)

R20: *SC in next 2 sts. 2SC in next st.* 7 times. Mark the 14th st – this is the middle of the face. SC in each st remaining. (49)

R21: *SC in next 3 sts. 2SC in next st.* 7 times. SC in each st remaining. (56)

R22-33: SC in each st around. (56)

Attach the safety eyes and nose now.

Eyes: Position them on the face between R20-21. Leave 16sts open between the holes where the eyes are inserted.

Nose: Place it in the center of the face between R5-6.

Start stuffing the head and continue stuffing as you go.

R34: *SC in next 6 sts. SC next 2 sts together.* Repeat all around. (49)

R35: *SC in next 5 sts. SC next 2 sts together.* Repeat all around. (42)

R36: *SC in next 4 sts. SC next 2 sts together.* Repeat all around. (35)

R37: *SC in next 3 sts. SC next 2 sts together.* Repeat all around. (28)

R38: *SC in next 2 sts. SC next 2 sts together.* Repeat all around. (21)

R39: *SC in next st. SC next 2 sts together.* Repeat all around. (14)

R40: *SC next 2 sts together.* Repeat all around. (7)

Tie off and sew closed.

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FRONT LEGS

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R1: 6 SC into a magic ring. (6)

R2: Continue working in the round. 2SC in each st around. (12)

R3: *SC in next st. 2SC in next st.* Repeat all around. (18)

R4-23: SC in each st around. (18)

Tie off, leaving a long thread for sewing the leg closed and attaching it to the body.

Stuff the leg firmly until it is half full. Continue stuffing less firmly to taper the leg off as you fill it up, ending with almost no stuffing at the opening.

Sew the leg closed.

Make 2.

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BACK LEGS

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R1: 6 SC into a magic ring. (6)

R2: Continue working in the round. 2SC in each st around. (12)

R3: *SC in next st. 2SC in next st.* Repeat all around. (18)

R4-19: SC in each st around. (18)

Tie off, leaving a long thread for sewing the leg closed and attaching it to the body.

Stuff the leg firmly until it is half full. Continue stuffing less firmly to taper the leg off as you fill it up, ending with almost no stuffing at the opening.

Sew the leg closed.

Make 2.

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EARS

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R1: Ch9. SC in 2nd ch from hk. SC in each ch. Ch1, turn. (8)

R2-7: SC in each st across. Ch1, turn. (8)

R8: SC 1st 2 sts together. SC in next 4 sts. SC last 2 sts together. Ch1, turn. (6)

R9: SC 1st 2 sts together. SC in next 2 sts. SC last 2 sts together. Ch1, turn. (4)

R10: SC 1st 2 sts together. SC last 2 sts together. Ch1, turn. (2)

R11: SC 2 sts together. Tie off.

SC around the edge of the ear:  Starting at the 1st ch, insert hook and join yarn with a SS. Work the tail in as you proceed. SC in same st. Crocheting evenly into the free edge of the ear, work 12 SC up the side. Once you reach the tip (R11), work 2SC into the st. Crocheting evenly into the free edge again, work 12 SC down the other side of the ear. Leave the 3rd free edge un-worked. Tie off, leaving a long thread for sewing ear to head.

Make 2 ears the same.

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TAIL

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R1: 6 SC into a magic ring. (6)

R2: Continue working in the round. 2SC in each st around. (12)

R3-8: SC in each st around. (12)

Tie off, leaving a long thread for sewing tail to body.

Stuff firmly.

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*

Well done – you’ve finished making all the pieces! Time to start assembling everything….

*

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ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS

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Note that the limbs and head don’t need to be sewn in the exact same position as stated below. Try pinning your dog together and adjust the features according the the type of character you want to create.

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FRONT LEGS

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Start with the front legs. Position them on the body at roughly a 45 degree angle between R25-31. Between the highest points, leave 6 sts open across the chest, between the legs.

Sew the legs in place along the edge that you previously sewed closed.

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BACK LEGS

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Sit the body up, allowing the front legs to support it as they will when the dog is finished. This will help you position the back legs. They should be flush with the ground.

Place them on either side of the body, with the ends aligned with the center of the body and spanning across R7-15. At the highest points there should be 23 sts between the legs, across the dog’s back; and 22 sts between the lowest points.

Sew the legs in place along the edge that you previously sewed closed. Then, sew the last 5 Rounds of the leg to the body as well, along the fold line created.

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HEAD

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Count 12 Rs from the back of the head, and pin the opening of the back of the neck here.

Count 14 Rs from the front of the head, and pin the opening of the front of the neck here.

Pin all around evenly, checking that the head is facing the desired direction, then sew in place.

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EARS

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Position the ears at R11 (counting from the back of the head).

Leave a gap of 7 sts open between them.

Lay the ears flat on the head, pointing towards the back of the head as pictured (without giggling at his abnormal hair growth), and then sew along the free edge where your starting chain is, to attach them.

They can now be posed as desired.

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TAIL

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Attach across R4-9, in the center of the body.

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*

Congratulations – your pup has a finished body! Let’s get together again next Monday for the exciting FUR TUTORIAL!

Edit:  Part 2 is now live! Click here.

*

I would love to see how your dapper doggies come out – tag me @Projectarian with your #WinchestertonTheThird photos, or post a pic in our little Facebook group!

Remember to share this post with your fellow crocheters, and subscribe so you don’t miss out on future Projects!

~ https://www.projectarian.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/03/27-1.jpg

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COPYRIGHT & SHARING

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Although this pattern is free for you to use, direct copying is strictly prohibited.

If you would like to share the pattern, please Pin it, or share this page’s link.

You may only share ONE image of the dog from this post.

If you share this pattern, you must add this page’s link.

You are welcome to sell any physical item you make with this pattern.

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PIN IT!

It’s a stitch sampler that you can wear!

This project is a wonderful opportunity for you to learn new stitches in a fun way, that doesn’t involve the long rows and tons of yarn it would take to make an afghan stitch sampler!

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SUPPLIES YOU’LL NEED

Crochet Hook: 4.5 mm (Size 7)

Yarn: DK weight (Light Worsted / 8ply/ 11wpi)

Yarn sewing needle

Scissors

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COLOURS USED

You can use as many or as few colours as you want. Using one solid colour will produce a lovely texture, 2 contrasting colurs will highlight the different stitches, or you can bust your stash by using a different colour for every row.

I used 5 colours:

Dark Blue

Medium Blue

Light blue

Dark Grey

Light Grey

White

I didn’t have enough of the one blue yarn, so they’re very artistically mis-matchted with a deep magenta substitute on one leg.

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CHANGING COLOURS

When it’s time to change colours, I like to tie the new colour on with a knot so I don’t have to weave in threads at the end. I super-hate sewing in ends, and with so many stripey color changes, this method is ideal. If you want to learn how to do it, I recommend this video, showing how to position the knot correctly (it looks awkward, but after the first 3 knots, you will be able to do it in your sleep).

Use any method you like, but make sure you begin each new row in the first stitch of the previous row unless otherwise specified.

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ABBREVIATIONS

• R = Row
• CH = Chain
• ST = Stitch
• SS = Slip stitch
• SC = Single crochet
• HDC = Half double crochet
• DC = Double crochet
• FPDC = Front post double crochet
• BPDC = Back post double crochet
• TRC = Triple crochet
• CL = Cluster
• *…* = Section to be repeated
• YO = Yarn over

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SPECIAL STITCH INSTRUCTIONS

Front and Back Post Double Crochet. (Click for tutorial)

Popcorn. (Click for tutorial)

Triple Crochet: YO twice. Draw up a loop. YO, draw through 2 loops on hook. YO, draw through remaining 3 loops on hook.

Cluster: Worked in the same way as a DC decrease. *YO, draw up a loop. YO, draw through 2 loops on hook.* Twice. YO, draw through remaining 3 loops on hook.

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CROCHET INSTRUCTIONS

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[ANKLE RIBBING]

R1: Ch 45. Join with a SS into 1st ch. (45)

R2: Ch2. Starting in 1st ch, DC in each ch, all the way around. Join with a SS into 1st DC. (45)

Change colour.

R3: Ch2. *FPDC in 1st st. BPDC in next st.* Repeat all around, alternating with FPDCs and BPDCs. Join with a SS into 1st FPDC. (45)

Change colour.

R4: Repeat R3.

Change colour.

R5: Repeat R3.

You will now have a beautiful, chunky little ribbed cuff!

Change colour.

[POPCORN]

R6: Ch1. SC into each st around. Join with a SS into 1st SC. (45)

R7: Ch2. DC in 1st 4 sts. Popcorn (consisting of 4DCs) in next st. *DC in next 4 sts. Popcorn in next st.* Repeat all around. Join with a SS into 1st DC. (36 DC, 9 Popcorns)

R8: Ch1. SC into each st around. Join with a SS into 1st SC. (45)

Change colour.

[SHELLS]

R9: Ch1. SC in 1st st. *[Skip 2 sts. 5DC in next st. Skip 2 sts. SC in next st.] Twice. Skip 1 st. 5DC in next st. Skip 2 sts. SC in next st.* Repeat. Skip 2 sts. 5DC in next st. Skip 2 sts. SC in next st. Skip 2 sts. 5DC in next st. Skip last 2 sts. Join with a SS into 1st SC. (8 Shells)

Change colour.

R10: Ch3 (Counts as 1st st). 4DC in 1st st. *Skip 2 sts. SC in next st. Skip 2 sts. 5DC in next st.* Repeat all around.  Join with a SS into top of starting ch. Tie off. (8 Shells)

R11: Leaving 1st 2 sts un-worked, join new yarn with a SS at 3rd DC. Ch1. SC in same st. *Skip 2 sts. 5DC in next st. Skip 2 sts. SC in next st.* Repeat all around. Join with a SS into 1st SC. (8 Shells)

Change colour.

R12: Ch4 (counts as 1st st). *DC in next st. HDC in next. SC in next. HDC in next. DC in next. TRC in next.* Repeat all around. Join with a SS into top of starting ch. (48)

[ROW OF FLOWERS]

R13: Ch4 (counts as DC + 1ch). DC in same st. *Skip 2 sts. DC, ch1, DC in next st,* Repeat all around. Join with a SS into 3rd ch of starting ch. (16 V-stitches)

Change colour.

R14: Ch1. Working into ch space (into V-stitch), make a CL. Ch1, CL in same ch space. *In next ch space, CL, ch1, CL.* Repeat all around. Join with a SS into 1st CL. (16 Flowers)

Change colour.

R15: Ch1. *2SC in next ch space. SC btween next 2CLs.* Repeat all around. Join with a SS into 1st SC.  (48)

[LARKSFOOT]

R16 & 17: Ch3 (counts as 1st st). DC in next 2 sts. *Ch1, skip next st. DC in next 3 sts.* Repeat all around. Join with a SS into top of starting ch. (12 Feet)

Change colour.

R18: Ch3 (counts as 1st st). *Ch1, skip next st. DC in next st. Now, work a long DC into SC from R15. DC in next st.* Repeat all around. Join with a SS into top of starting ch. (12 Feet)

R19: Ch3 (counts as 1st st). *Ch1, skip next st. DC in next 3 sts.* Repeat all around.  Join with a SS into 3rd ch of starting ch. (12 Feet)

Change colour.

R20: Ch3 (counts as 1st st). *Work a long DC into DC from R17. DC in next st. Ch1, skip next st. DC in next st. * Repeat all around. Join with a SS into top of starting ch. (12 Feet)

R21: Ch3 (counts as 1st st). DC in next 2 sts.*Ch1, skip next st. DC in next 3 sts.* Repeat all around. Join with a SS into top of starting ch. (12 Feet)

Change colour.

R22: Ch3 (counts as 1st st). *Ch1, skip next st. DC in next st. Now, work a long DC into SC from R19. DC in next st.* Repeat all around. Join with a SS into top of starting ch. (12 Feet)

R23: Repeat R19.

Change colour.

R24: Ch1. SC in same st. *2SC in ch space. [SC in next 3 sts. SC in ch space] 3 times. SC in next 3 sts.* Repeat all around. Join with a SS into 1st SC. (51)

Change colour.

[MOROCCAN]

The following rows use a variation of the Moroccan Market Tote stitch by Moogly.

R25: Ch3 (counts as 1st st). Ch1, DC in same st. *Skip next 2 sts. DC, ch1, DC in next st.* Repeat all around. Join with a SS into 3rd ch of starting ch. (17 V-stitches)

Do not tie off. Use a different colour for the next row, dropping the loop of your current working yarn to pick up and carry on later.

R26: With a knot on your kook, join new yarn into ch space of 1st V-stitch. Ch3 (counts as 1st st). DC in same space. *Ch1. 2DC in next ch space.* Repeat all around. Join with a SS into top of starting ch, keeping the working yarn from the previous row to the front of your work-piece. Tie off. (17 Groups)

Pick up yarn from previous row.

R27: This row’s stitches will be worked over the previous row, and in-between the V-stitches from R25. Ch3 (counts as 1st st).  *Between next 2 V-stitches, DC, ch1, DC.* Repeat all around. Finish with DC, ch1, SS into top of starting ch. (17 V-stitches)

Do not tie off. Use a different colour for the next row, dropping the loop of your current working yarn to pick up and carry on later.

R28: Repeat R26.

Pick up yarn from previous row.

R27: This row’s stitches will be worked over the previous row, and in-between the V-stitches from R25. Ch3 (counts as 1st st).  *[Between next 2 V-stitches, 3DC] twice. Between next 2 V-stitches, 4DC.* Repeat all around. Join with a SS into top of starting ch. (56)

Change colour.

[ZIGZAGS]

Originally from this pin – if anyone knows the real name for this pattern, please comment and let me know!!

R28: Ch1, SC in 1st st. *Ch1. Skip next st. SC in next st.* Repeat all around. Join with a SS into 1st SC. (28 SC, 28 ch)

Do not tie off. Use a different colour for the next row, leaving the loop of your current working yarn to pick up and carry on later.

R29: (See pictures) With a knot on your kook, join new yarn into 1st skipped stitch of R27. Attach your yarn in front of the previous row’s stitches – do no work over them.Ch3 (counts as 1st st). *Ch1. DC in next open st on R27, this time working behind the previous row’s stitches. Ch1. DC in next open st on R27, this time working in front of the previous row’s stitches.* Repeat all around, alternating back and forth in this manner. Join with a SS into 3rd ch of starting ch, keeping the working yarn from the previous row to the back. (28 DC, 28 ch)

Drop working yarn and pick up yarn from previous row.

R30: Ch3 (counts as 1st st). *Ch1. DC into next SC st on R28, working behind the previous row’s stitches. Ch1. DC into next SC on R28, this time working in front of the previous row’s stitches.* Repeat all around, alternating back and forth in this manner. Join with a SS into3rd ch of starting ch. (28 DC, 28 ch)

Drop working yarn and pick up yarn from previous row.

R31: Ch3 (counts as 1st st). *Ch1. DC into next DC st on R29, working in front of the previous row’s stitches. Ch1. DC into next DC on R29, this time working behind the previous row’s stitches.* Repeat all around, alternating back and forth in this manner. Join with a SS into 3rd ch of starting ch, Keeping the working yarn from the previous row to the back.  (28 DC, 28 ch)

Drop working yarn and pick up yarn from previous row.

R32: Keeping the working yarn from the previous row to the front, ch3 (counts as 1st st). *Ch1. DC into next DC st on R30, working in front of the previous row’s stitches. Ch1. DC into next DC on R30, this time working behind the previous row’s stitches.* Repeat all around, alternating back and forth in this manner. Join with a SS into 3rd ch of starting ch. (28 DC, 28 ch)

Drop working yarn and pick up yarn from previous row.

R33: Ch3 (counts as 1st st). *Ch1. DC into next SC st on R31, working behind the previous row’s stitches. Ch1. DC into next SC on R31, this time working in front of the previous row’s stitches.* Repeat all around, alternating back and forth in this manner. Join with a SS into 3rd ch of starting ch, keeping the working yarn from the previous row to the front. (28 DC, 28 ch)

R34:  Keeping the working yarn from the previous row to the back, ch3 (counts as 1st st). *Ch1. DC into next SC st on R32, working behind the previous row’s stitches. Ch1. DC into next SC on R32, this time working in front of the previous row’s stitches.* Repeat all around, alternating back and forth in this manner. Join with a SS into 3rd ch of starting ch. (28 DC, 28 ch)

Tie off working yarn. Pick up yarn from previous row.

R35: Ch1, SC in same st. *Ch1. SC into next DC st on R31, working in front of the previous row’s stitches. Ch1. SC into next DC on R31, this time working behind the previous row’s stitches.* Repeat all around, alternating back and forth in this manner. Join with a SS into 1st SC (28 SC, 28 ch)

[TOP RIBBING]

Note: this type of ribbing may come out looser than regular crocheting. For a tighter rib, go down one hook size.

R36: Ch2. DC in 1st st. *DC in next ch space. DC in next st.* Repeat all around. (56)

Change colour.

R37: Ch2. *FPDB in 1st st. BPDC in next st.* Repeat all around, alternating with FPDCs and BPDCs. Join with a SS into 1st FPDC. (56)

Change colour.

R38: Repeat R37.

Change colour.

R39: Repeat R37.

R40: Ch2. HDC in each st around. Tie off.

You’re all done! I hope you enjoy the pattern as much as I did. Please let me know if you spot any mistakes so I can fix them.

Share your photos with us on Instagram or Facebook!

Share this post with your fellow crocheters, and subscribe so you don’t miss out on future Projects!

~ https://www.projectarian.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/03/27-1.jpg

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COPYRIGHT & SHARING

Although this tutorial is free for you to use, direct copying of the pattern is strictly prohibited.

If you would like to share the pattern, please Pin it, or share this page’s link.

You may only share ONE image from this post.

If you share this pattern, you must add this page’s link.

You are welcome to sell any physical item made from this pattern.

---

PIN IT!